When I arrived in Paris in November 2017, it was the end point of a move that included four countries in one year. And after all of the mayhem, I was more than ready to call somewhere home. It was winter, again, my third winter in a row, which was far more grey than anyone should have to see. I only knew one person in Paris, someone I met back in my Beijing days who had also made the French move. My brain, when spurred to think in a language other than English, went to Mandarin. There seemed to be noooo space for the schoolgirl French that I very naively thought would bubble up and wow the French with when I arrived. In the first weeks of being here I would start a discussion with the “maraichers” at the market with a ‘bonjour’ and end it with a ‘xie xie’ - we all ended up confused!
That was my reality the first year of living here.
I also arrived with the assumption that all French people were content with the vast array of cheese, wine and social security that is afforded the average citizen. But as with most things, it was way more complex than that. Gilet jaune (yellow vest) protests were gaining momentum and culminated one weekend with me watching black smoke pour over the skyline of Paris blocking out the monuments I was used to seeing from my living room. Talk about culture shock! What I learnt was that the French are as complex as everyone else in the world. And that was my first in a long - ongoing - series of lessons! My prejudice had got in the way - it was a European country right? After 9 years of the chaos and colour of Beijing, I thought things would be calmer in France! I was soooo wrong in so many ways and I have spent the following years trying to catch up.
Roll on six years later, empathy and some sense of cultural understanding has slowly replaced total bewilderment. I will not admit to being so au fait with French culture until my language skills improve, but I have come such a long way. What I have realised is that although tradition is cherished in France, there is also general dissatisfaction with the status quo. So which part of the French psysche wins? It seems to be an on going discussion (tug of war) that culminated in the recent French legislative elections. I’m not here to comment on that. But I will say that living in an adoptive country, one the you may have married into or taken a professional transfer or chose to live in for love of the culture or of the cheese, for whatever the reason, it will always be a massive daily challenge. You will never get rid of your ‘cute’ accent, you will constantly be asked where you came from and why. And eventually, once you have got the hang of the unwritten rules and repartee, the politesse (always say bonjour when you enter a shop) and traditions (never arrive on time) you will be welcomed with what all newbies in a foreign country want, a nod of acceptance, an acknowledgement that whilst you might not be one of them, you do belong among them!
There is another major French tradition which occurs every year on July 14th, Bastille Day! My favourite part of it is THE FLY BY! Normally I am knees deep in cooking and organising a buffet for 120 guests for one of the hot ticket parties in Paris due to our amazing view. If I’m lucky enough, I put knives down and race out to the balcony to see the Patrouille de France fly by, releasing the French flag’s famous red white and blue. I can’t tell you why it gives me goose bumps, but every year it’s just as thrilling. This year the fly by happened in reverse as the Champs Élysées was not able to be used, because, you know, there is a games of some sort happening soon ! It made the viewing all the more wonderful and special.
Luckily, thanks to the Olympics, there was no official reception to cook for this year and I was off the hook. I invited some friends over and we celebrated quietly with cheese, charcuterie, gougeres and then a tomato, feta, olive and basil galette, a French feast. As 11pm ticked over, we made our way to the balcony and waited for the fun to begin. And waited. Security was especially tight this year and I did pinch myself with the luck of being above the crowds as I watched the police moving people on from vantage points which are usually ok. After a twenty minute delay (remember, the French never arrive on time - tradition!) the show began !
And what a show! We oohed and ahhed at the drones forming 3D figures of different sports and of course the utter fabulousness of the fireworks on the tower. It’s the first time I’ve been totally relaxed and able to make the most of my front row seat so to speak, and to share it with mates was just grand. I loved it, but then I always do. I often forget how lucky I am. Having friends come over and marvel at the tower, my constant companion, reminds me that I am so so fortunate.
And as I sit here about to press publish, the Olympic Games Opening Ceremony is just over 24 hours away. Paris is primped and primed and fingers crossed, ready to wow the world. Despite all the negative press, the city has moved forward with its ambitious plans to show off its major landmarks and utilise the Seine. It is certainly a lot greener than I have ever seen it. As I was making my way down the stairs from my roof top garden, I felt the first buzz of excitement that the games were not far away. All the security inconveniences aside, I cant wait for the spectacle to begin. Paris and that ever present tower is about to light up, once more.
So here is the recipe for the gallette that we ate on Bastille Day :
Tomato Gallette with whipped feta olives and basil from my garden. Inspired by Danielle Alverez.
First - the pastry ! It is important that all the ingredients are cold. It helps make the pastry super flaky.
Ingredients:
360g plain flour
270g cold butter, diced
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
130-180ml ice cold water
Method:
Place the flour, sugar and salt in a blender and pulse a few times to combine Add in the cold diced butter. Begin pulsing the dough in order to break up the butter. It doesn’t matter if the butter is not evenly broken up. Rough and ready breadcrumb is what you are looking for here. Next slowly pour in 130ml of water with the machine on. As soon as the pastry begins to form a paste, turn off the machine and tip the pastry onto the bench. Then use your hands to push the dough together, adding more water drip by drip as is necessary to make a dough that is holding together and that no longer has any dry and floury bits. Then flatten the dough into a disk and seperate into two and then place one piece on top of the other. Then press the pastry into a rectangle and wrap in baking paper and place in the fridge for no less than an hour to rest the pastry.
When ready to make the gallette, take out the pastry from the fridge and place on a floured bench. Roll out the dough to a 4mm thickness and cut a 16cm round. Place the round on a baking tray and place it back into the fridge whilst you make the filling.
Ingredients :
200g sheets milk fetta
100g of creme fraiche
Pinch of salt and a few grinds if pepper
A few handfuls of basil leaves.
500-750g cherry tomatoes
150g of green olives (sans pits)
1 egg, cracked into a small bowl and mixed with 1 teaspoon water and scrambled
Method :
I used feta, some creme fraiche and a good couple of handful of basil leaves from my rooftop garden. I placed all of these ingredients in the blender and blended until it was smooth and well, green from the basil. I seasoned it and spread it out on the base of the pastry leaving a 3cm border all round.
I then placed the halved cherry tomatoes on top in a circular pattern. I then placed the halved green olives randomly over the top of the tomatoes. I then began to fold the pastry over itself to form a border. I then brushed the border with the egg wash. I then seasoned the tomatoes with some cracked black pepper and placed the tart in the freezer for 30 minutes ( this step is not necessary but it gives the pastry some extra flakiness when baked). When you are ready to cook the gallette, turn to oven to 180C and wait for it to come up to temperature. Cook the gallette for 45 minutes until the pastry is a lovely golden brown and the tomatoes are burnished and beginning to collapse.
Take out of the oven and let cool for 10 minutes before throwing some fresh bush basil leaves on top. Enjoy !
Fun things seen in Paris :
Yes that is a car covered with the mascot of the Paris Olympic mascot. I guess they were looking for their own gold medal in decorations !
Set the table:
An oldie but in honour of the tower, a very French table.
Stay tuned for a special newsletter coming this weekend all about the Opening Ceremony !
Enjoy the ceremony and the beginning of the Games everyone !
Kathx