My love of gardening comes from my darling father who had such a green thumb that he has a Camelia named after him, the George! Yes, I am one proud daughter ! Unfortunately he passed away some time ago but because of his amazing talent in creating a small but beautiful oasis in suburban Hobart, I have always tried emulate him and sought to create a garden of sorts wherever I find myself. In New York, it was just a few indoor plants and the odd pot of basil on the mantle in the kitchen. In Holland, the Royal family had a massive abundant vegetable garden, complete with water fountain, on their country estate which was a sheer joy. In Beijing, my boss built me a huge plot where I even managed to grow tomato plants upside to circumvent the constant rain (in suspended pots : they jury is out on whether this is worth it). In China I also had over 30 different kinds of herbs, vegetables galore and even the odd watermelon. And now here in Paris, thanks to Shaun Kelly, my predecessor who now co-owns Le Doyenne Restaurant and is a proper payagiste to boot, I have a rooftop oasis of my own. And so I continue to grow his humble garden, which was based on sustainability and composting. It’s now at the point where over the “growing” months, I need not for herbs and in the last two years, fewer and fewer vegetables as well.
Paris though, has had other ideas this year and is making plant life difficult. So much rain has fallen, coupled with the cooler temperatures, the seeds that I pop in the soil don’t get the sun and heat they need to germinate. And then there are Les Escargots and we are not talking the ones you can eat. So many snails - how did they even make their way to a rooftop in Paris? And despite their reputation of being slow - they are not! - they will eat a small seedling in no time. As I write, I know that they are up there and that they are eating and consequently I am not happy! But despite these challenges, I am winning a few battles. I have adored watching the strawberries thrive and flourish following a big replanting session with a friend’s sister-in-law in March. And I love that she came to help, I love how gardens and gardening bring people together. Now there is fruit and I am watching the flowers turn into green buds and slowly ripening to that brilliant red! There is nothing to match reaching down into a garden bed and picking a strawberry that is warm and ripe and sweet and eating it with the knowledge that its yours, all yours and relishing that its going to make you so so happy. Bliss, simple bliss.
As you know, Paris is about to host the Jeux Olympiques and talking all things plants, across the road from my lovely windows, is another roof garden. This one is full of irises, in the colours of the Olympic rings. Well kinda - it doesn’t quite follow the official brief but hey - who doesn’t like a rule breaker when they are flowering and giving me so much joy. I wish you could all see them, they really are pretty. And all around Mrs Iron Lady, the construction continues at break neck speed. Champs de Mars now has a beach volley ball stadium, complete with security tents. Trocadero is a huge building site with cranes appearing every other day building who knows what?! These to me are exciting times - who will light the flame? Will it be lit at the base or the top of the tower? I have a glimmer of hope that I might be able to see the stage for the Opening Ceremony from my bedroom window, a front row seat! You will read about it here!
I am one of the few people I know who will be staying in Paris for the games, just about everyone is escaping (the traffic, the tourists, the hullaballoo) to the country side. But I am looking forward to being here. I will admit that this is the third city that I will be in for the Olympic Games. Sydney, Beijing and now Paris. Every city has been wildly different and I can’t wait to see the show Paris produces. I might be the one last person who lives here who is excited. Work wise, The Australian Olympic Committee will be keeping me very busy, the programme includes lots of cocktail parties, a sit down dinner for 45 and maybe even an Australian BBQ. Should be fun, if not a little exhausting but I’m looking forward to sharing what I end up cooking. Ideas are beginning to flow, although I am yet to know which markets will be open and if they will keep to their original timetables. Here’s hoping that they do. These are the logistical challenges that I and countless other Parisians face, along with those relating to security, but I maintain my thrill at the upcoming games.
Speaking earlier of strawberries, I had a lunch for 30 people this week and I needed to make a crowd pleasing dessert. Whilst the humble pavlova certainly fits the brief, I tired of making them and so decided to make its very close cousin the rolled pavlova. I grew up with it and it has always had somewhat of a slightly suspect reputation due to un unfair judgement of being a little “homey” but I had forgotten how fabulous it actually is. And so I made one and ended up with a joyous dessert that was gobbled up in a matter of minutes.
Rasberry, Kiwi and Pistachio Rolled Pavlova
200g egg whites
280g caster sugar
1 Tblspn vanilla extract
1tsp cream of tartar ( this helps stabilise the egg whites)
2 tsps cornflour
For the filling :
300ml whipping cream
50g icing sugar (powdered)
60g of very lightly toasted pistachios
300g fresh rasberries
3 kiwi fruits, peeled and sliced into rounds
Method :
Preheat the oven to 180C . Line a 35x30cm jelly roll pan with parchment paper, so the paper rises 1cm over the sides if the tin.
Now place the egg whites and the cream of tartar in the bowl of an electric mixer with the whisk attachment and whisk on a medium high speed until soft peaks form, Now turn up the speed and begin to slowly add the sugar a tablespoon at a time, until all the sugar has been added. Keep whisking for at least five minutes, until the meringue is thick and glossy. Reduce the speed to low and add the vanilla extract and cornflour. Increase the speed to medium and whisk until just combined.
Spoon the meringue mix into the lined pan and use an offsest spatula to spread it out evenly in the tray. Place it into the preheated oven, bake for about 30 minutes until the meringue is lightly browned and crusty on top. Remove from the oven and set aside until completely cool. The meringue will deflate slightly as it cools, this is normal.
As it cools, make the filling. Beat the cream until thickened peaks form, add the vanilla and icing sugar and whisk until combined. Set aside.
Now to assemble. Place a clean tea towel flat on top of the meringue and quickly invert it onto the work surface, so that the crisp top of the meringues not facing down sitting on top of the tea towel. Lift the tin off and carefully peel away the parchment paper before spreading the meringue evenly with two thirds of the whipped cream. Cover generously with 200g of the rasberries and all of the pistachios.
To roll the meringue, start with the longest side closest to you and, using the tea towel to assist you, roll the meringue up and over to the the edges come together to form a log. Gently pull away the tea towel, as you roll, then slide the the meringue onto a long tray or a platter with the seam side facing down.
To finish, pipe the remaining cream over the length of the roulade and top with the slices of fruit. The photo below is how I ended up decorating it, I want with a little 70’s kitsch and truth be told, was very happy with the result.
Set the table :
This shot was taken when I was experimenting with different metals, hence the silver and the gold. It must be said that I do love a good bird on the table !
Fun things seen in Paris :
There are some gorgeous cookware shops in Paris E Dehillerin, anyone? But sometimes, you just need a professional cookware shop that is so vast, it takes hours to search for all manner of cooking equipment. And I found these boots at Metro supermarket, a cornucopia of a place that stocks everything your heart desires but is only open to professionals. For me it so fun but also so large that I can become overwhelmed by the sheer number to items in stock.
A fabulous and fantastic friend arrives from Australia tomorrow and there is so much planned that I will no doubt need a holiday to recover from her being here ! I cant wait to share the travels that we have planned along with a scary amount of wine tasting in Burgandy, countless restaurants and even a trip to Copenhagen.
Stay tuned and see you in two weeks.
Kath
Again! I learned and still learn a lot from you!